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Rakaposhi Expedition

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49 Days
Availability : June- August
Islamabad
Skardu
Min Age : 18+
Expedition Details

Rakaposhi Mountain: Unveiling the Wonders of The Shining Wall

Unlocking Rakaposhi’s Significance

The Rakaposhi Expedition is a daring journey to the summit of the queen of Nagar Valey. The name Rakaposhi derives its meaning from the local language, signifying “Snow Covered.” In the indigenous Burushaski language, it resonates as the “Shining Wall,” a distinct nickname not to be confused with Gasherbrum I, which also translates to “Shining Wall” in the local Balti dialect. Despite ranking as the 27th highest peak globally and the 12th highest in Pakistan, Rakaposhi surpasses mere statistics; it is celebrated primarily for its mesmerizing beauty. Its prominent position at the heart of the Hunza valley has tempted many adventurers to scale its heights, although relatively few have dared to conquer its summit. This aura of mystery enveloping the mountain adds to its allure, leaving an indelible impression on those who venture to this breathtaking region.

Location of Rakaposhi

Rakaposhi, a majestic mountain nestled in the Karakoram Range, graces the northern landscapes of Pakistan. It proudly stands in the Nagar Valley, approximately 100 kilometers to the north of Gilgit, within the Gilgit District of the Gilgit-Baltistan province.

Climbing Routes: Navigating the Ascent
  1. South-West Spur: The Preferred Path

The southwest spur route, often considered the most accessible, consequently ranks as the most favored among climbers undertaking the Rakaposhi Expedition. While the journey is lengthy, it lacks excessive technical challenges. In 1958, Rakaposhi welcomed its first conquerors, Mike Banks and Tom Patey, who were part of a British-Pakistani expedition. Their ascent, though remarkable, came at a cost as they both endured minor frostbite during the climb. Tragically, another climber slipped and perished on the descent that night.

  1. North-West Ridge: Trials and Triumph

The North-West Ridge route, once attempted by Bill Tilman’s expedition and the Cambridge University team, initially met with failure in their quest to reach the summit. However, it wasn’t until 1979 that success finally kissed this route, courtesy of a Polish-Pakistani expedition.

  1. North Ridge/Spr (Japanese Spur): A Challenging Ascent

Ascending between the Ghulmet and Pisan glaciers at approximately 6000 meters, the North Ridge/Spur, also known as the Japanese Spur, presents a lengthy yet relatively safe route, sheltered from the dangers that flank its sides. Karl Herrligkoffer led two Rakaposhi Expedition campaigns aimed at conquering this route, both ending in frustration due to strategic complications. However, Eiho Ohtani took a Japanese team to the summit, an arduous journey that involved fixing a staggering 5000 meters of rope along the way.

  1. East Ridge: The Unconquered Frontier

The East Ridge promises an ascent to Rakaposhi East (7010 meters), from where a traverse westward leads to the primary summit. Despite three attempts in the 80s, success eluded all, and the route to Rakaposhi’s main summit via this path remains untouched.

  1. North-West Spur: A Grand Challenge

The North-West Spur, claiming the title of the world’s longest spur in the Rakaposhi Expedition, extends nearly 4000 meters over a length of 7 kilometers between the Masot and Gulmit glaciers. Astonishingly, this route remains unconquered, standing as one of the Karakoram’s most imposing unattained objectives.

Distinctive Characteristics: What Sets Rakaposhi Apart

This massive mountain boasts an extraordinary breadth, stretching nearly 20 kilometers from east to west. What sets Rakaposhi apart from its peers is the incredible elevation difference of over 5,000 meters between its base camp and summit. In contrast, the world’s tallest mountains typically exhibit less than 5,000 meters of elevation gain from base to summit. Furthermore, within the Rakaposhi massif, Rakaposhi East (7010 meters) reigns as the highest peak.

Beyond the allure of the Rakaposhi Expedition to mountaineers and adventurers, the mountain holds profound significance for geologists. It marks the prow of the Eurasian landmass, while Nanga Parbat, a neighboring peak, represents the prow of the Indian landmass. This geological distinction further amplifies Rakaposhi’s prominence.

Rakaposhi stands as a true marvel of nature, captivating all who lay eyes upon it. From its intriguing name origins to its challenging climbing routes and unique geographical features, Rakaposhi is undoubtedly a gem in the world of mountaineering and exploration.

Departure & Return Location

Islamabad – Hunza

Price Includes

  • Liaison with ministry of tourism in Islamabad for permit process
  • Process of import and export permit from ministry of tourism
  • Assistance upon arrival and departure.
  • Welcome reception and meeting at Alpine Club of Pakistan in Islamabad
  • Sleeping Tents on sharing basis ,mess Tent, kitchen Tent and toilet Tent, metresses etc.
  • Kitchen equipment. crockery. cutlery. Fuel and related community gear
  • Wages and basic kit of guide, Sirdar. Cook and low altitude porters.
  • Insurance of our field staff and low altitude porters.(except helicopter rescue).
  • Letter of guarantee on behalf of team/client for environmental bond.
  • Reconfirmation of air tickets
  • Clearance of cargo before the arrival of the team and its storage.
  • Hotel accommodation and meals as per given hotels in the itinerary.
  • All meals during Trek and at base camp
  • All road transfers. And sightseeing as per itinerary. Porterage of 75 kg per person of expedition equipment and high altitude food etc. To BC and 50 kg per person on return from base camp.
  • All expenses of Liaison officer
  • Pollution fee 200 $
  • CKNP fee 68 $ per person

Price Excludes

  • International air ticket and airport taxes
  • Visa fee to Pakistan and personal insurance of the client
  • Cargo fee and customs charges for import and export
  • Room services, laundry, beverages, personal phone calls, and soft drinks.
  • Medications ground evacuations and helicopter rescue charges ( ca, 10,000 $) etc.
  • Food above base camp for members and high altitude porters etc
  • Porters and staff tips
  • Any other services which are not mentioned in given Services include
Itinerary

Day 1Arrival in Islamabad

Your adventure begins as you arrive in the serene city of Islamabad. Take in the capital’s charm and get ready for an unforgettable journey through Northern Pakistan.

Day 2Skardu or Chilas - Gateway to the North

Today, you’ll either take a scenic flight to Skardu or enjoy a picturesque drive to Chilas, depending on flight availability. Either way, you’re in for a treat as you witness the stunning landscapes en route.

Day 3Chilas to Minapin - Along the Karakoram Highway

Embark on a 6-7 hour journey from Chilas to Minapin, covering a distance of 220km along the famous Karakoram Highway. Along the way, stop at the viewpoint near Talichi for a mesmerizing view of the mighty Nanga Parbat.

Day 4Minapin to Tagafari (3700m) - Trekking Through Nature's Beauty

Today, the adventure truly begins as you trek to Tagafari. This 5-6 hour trail takes you through enchanting forests, offering excellent views of Diran. Spend the night camping under the starry sky.

Day 5Tagafari to Base Camp (3900m) - Glacial Crossing

Continue your trek to Kacheli, a 3-4 hour journey that involves crossing the Diran glaciers. The ever-changing glacial landscape is sure to leave you in awe. Overnight in your camp.

Day 6 - 35Climbing Activities

The next 30 days are dedicated to thrilling climbing activities. Immerse yourself in the challenges and triumphs of climbing in this remarkable region.

Day 36Return to Karimabad

Bid farewell to your base camp as you make your way back to Karimabad. This journey involves a 7-8 hour trek or a 45-minute drive, depending on your preference.

Day 37Explore Karimabad

Enjoy a free day to explore the wonders of Karimabad in Hunza Valley. Visit historical sites, indulge in local cuisine, and soak in the rich culture of this region.

Day 38Karimabad to Besham/Naran - Scenic Drive

Today, embark on a scenic drive from Karimabad to Besham or to Naran via Babusar Pass. The 12 to 14-hour journey will be filled with stunning vistas. Overnight at a comfortable hotel.

Day 39Besham/Naran to Islamabad - Journey's End

As your adventure nears its conclusion, recall beautiful memories while you drive back to Islamabad. In the afternoon, participate in a debriefing session at the Alpine Club of Pakistan. Enjoy your last night at a cozy hotel.

Day 40Departure

It’s time to say goodbye to this land of wonders. Transfer to the airport for your return flight home, taking with you memories of a lifetime.

This 40-day itinerary offers an unparalleled adventure through Northern Pakistan, from the bustling streets of Islamabad to the serene valleys of Karimabad. Get ready to be captivated by the natural beauty, cultural richness, and thrilling experiences that this region has to offer. Make your journey unforgettable and let the landscapes of Northern Pakistan leave an indelible mark on your heart.

 
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